I did ride a motorcycle once in my life. I held my breath and thought about my dad, who warned me to never, ever get on a motorcycle--and then I thought just this once. It was 26 years ago--because I was 19 years old in the hills outside Florence. It was evening and the sky was peach and plum after a rain, and my friend from Argentina offered me a ride straight to my doorstep in the center of town on his beautiful BMW bike. The ride was a sustained flash of dark, wet color. Exquisite. The next time I was offered a motor bike ride was several years on when someone invited me to a concert outside Rome, but I would have had to ride with him on his motorbike going and coming. No thank you, I said thinking a concert definitely didn't merit the risk-- because I had time to think.